Typically a paving job is completed in 1 day, unless the application of layers (or lifts) is staggered. Frequently in new home construction the paving contractor will put down just the first lift while the home is being constructed and then the final layer when the home is completed. This ensures that only the base lift is dented or stained during the home construction phase.
Our bid is a fixed price quote for completing the entire paving job. If there are any changes additional costs will be approved in writing before work continues.
VAM will contact Dig Safe prior to installing the driveway to make sure there are no buried wires or pipes underneath the area where paving when required.
You should delay the sealing of the paved driveway for 6-9 months to allow all of the light weight oils in the paved driveway to evaporate first. As these light weight oils evaporate the driveway will harden. If you seal the driveway prior to these oils evaporating the driveway may always be soft.
Overlays - Remove & Replace-Infrared Repairs-Additions-Catch Basin
Remove and Replacing
New Driveway Installations
Prior to starting a remove and replace job VAM will first sketch out the home and desired driveway footprint and carefully consider the width of the driveway and any turn around extensions homeowner may desire. There is a tendency to make driveways to narrow and turn arounds too small which frequently leads to vehicles driving on and off the edge of the pavement. This frequent driving on and off the edges leads to a rapid breakdown in the pavement along the edges of the driveway.
VAM will work with the homeowner so the driveway has the proper slopes to ensure water does not pool on the driveway nor drain into the existing home or other building structures when needed.
VAM will remove any topsoil or clay material from the proposed paving area and will additionally install the appropriate sub-base and base gravel material when indicated on proposal and contract. All gravel material that is brought in will be thoroughly compacted to prevent sink holes from eventually occurring in the paved driveway.
If your home is on municipal sewer or water you may need to have pipes extended upwards to the new height of the paved driveway. VAM will include the raising of pipes when indicated on agreement.
After approval, area will be excavated to an approximate dept of 10” to 12” so that the proper substrate and asphalt can be installed. Area is leveled so that the water flows in the proper direction per drainage requirements.
Then base is added at 6” to 8” and two layers consisting of 4” inches of hot mix asphalt is replaced, and brought to proper grade and compacted. Edges are hand tamped to create a finished beveled edge when needed. The addition is completed with sealing the butt joint with liquid sealer.
An addition extends the pavement size. We will work with you to draw a diagram of the area that would need to be submitted to local zoning department for approval, when required. Zoning approval is the responsibilities of the homeowner. Vitale Asphalt Maintenance is responsible for obtaining the permit and homeowner will be charged for the cost of the permit.
INSPECTIONS: VAM will schedule inspection if there are any cost, those are the homeowners responsibility. More than one inspection may be required (e.g. after the installation of the sub-base and base layers, after the raising of any municipal water or sewage pipes and after the application of the asphalt hot mix.
Prior to the
Asphalt paved driveways are extremely popular and the most cost effective to install over most other driveway options. Unlike concrete, asphalt is both strong and flexible making it ideal for colder temperature zones where constant freezing and thawing occur. If installed properly, an asphalt driveway can last 25-30 years with only minor maintenance (sealing once every 1-2 years).
Asphalt paving, also known as Hot Mix Asphalt paving, consists of an aggregate of stone and sand mixed with liquid asphalt cement.
Repairs are done using new hot mix asphalt. Because it will be a different batch of asphalt it is impossible for us to match the existing pavement texture. Repairs will have a different appearance from the existing asphalt, this can vary from very slight to moderate, most repairs blend in over time.
Overlay repairs are used when there is a sufficient depression in which to place asphalt so as not to raise the surface of the asphalt to high. Areas are prepared by cleaning the surface with wire brooms and blowers removing all loose debris. An asphalt tack coat is applied to the repair area and hot asphalt is put down, brought to grade and compacted to achieve a smooth level surface.
Due to the nature of an overlay patch there will be a slight raised edge where the old asphalt meets the new. The repair is then finished by applying a liquid sealer to the edge giving it a finished appearance. The patch and the sealer need 24 hours before being driven on. This is an economical patch that can last for many years.
Remove and Replace
This process entails saw cutting around the failed section of pavement removing the old asphalt exposing the substrate. Thus exposing the reason for the pavement failure. It is normally, but not limited to, improper base installed, asphalt installed at a depth to shallow, pour drainage, or ground clay not removed causing a spongy substrate. After the proper base is put in place we install hot asphalt in two layers to achieve the best compaction possible, bring to grade and compact. The process is finished by applying a liquid sealer around the edge. This finished patch will match the height of the adjacent pavement. This repair is the longest lasting.
The use of an asphalt reheat system is recommended when the asphalt is in a fairly good condition and needs minor repairs that will enhance the condition and use of the asphalt surface. See enclosed brochure for more details on the infrared procedure. The existing asphalt is heated back to the original working temperature approximately 325 degrees, at such time the repair can be made. After making the repair a liquid sealer is applied to the edge helping to keep out water and give the repair a finished look. The infrared process will not correct substrate issues and will not work on extremely faded dried out asphalt, heavily seal coated or asphalt infiltrated with dirt. It is mainly used for asphalt that is in somewhat a good condition and produces an excellent result.
The aggregate is carefully mixed and heated prior to being mixed with liquid asphalt cement that has been heated to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. The mixture is delivered hot (approximately 300 degrees) to the job site and applied to the sub-base/base layer of the driveway. The just finished paved driveway should have a temperature of around 175 degrees Fahrenheit.
In order to ensure a quality paved driveway it is critical to first apply a sub-base and a base layer of gravel when needed usually with a remove and replace. The sub-base layer should be approximately 8 inches thick (after compaction) and be constructed of larger stones (e.g. 2 to 3 inches in diameter). The base layer that sits on top of the sub-base should be 5-6 inches thick (after compaction) and should be constructed of smaller stones (e.g. 3⁄4 - 2 inch stone). The sub-base and base layers should extend approximately a foot beyond the finished paved driveway to help prevent the edge of the pavement from cracking when vehicles roll off the edge of the paved driveway.
A typical asphalt paving job typically consists of the application of two layers (or lifts) of asphalt. Each layer typically consists of 1.5 to 2 inches of asphalt creating a finished compacted total thickness of 3-4 inches. Do not accept anything less than 3 inches (after compaction) for a finished remove and replace paving job. For a resurface 1.5 inches will create a finished compacted total thickness of 1.0 inch.
Asphalt paving needs to be applied on a warm (at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit), dry day. The sub-base and base gravel layers should also be dry. If any of these conditions are not met, and the asphalt is applied, the paved driveway will never be as strong as it should be. Do not allow the paving of your driveway if these conditions are not met. Asphalt Hot Mix needs to be applied hot for maximum penetration into the sub-base and base layers and to cure properly.
Each subsequent Layer (or lift) will be applied shortly after the previous one. Once the first layer is applied and has been compacted the second layer will be immediately applied for best construction. After each layer is applied the layers will be compacted with a heavy paving roller. Edges will also be compacted with a compactor.
VAM will make sure that finished pavement has the specified/required slopes and drainage required and discussed with homeowner. VAM will not dump on your property any excess asphalt material.
VAM will not backfill around driveway unless specified.
Do not drive on the new asphalt driveway for 5-7 days, depending upon how warm the temperatures are. The warmer it is, the longer you should wait prior to driving on the driveway.
If you plan on making turns on your newly paved driveway, sprinkle a little sand on the driveway where you expect to make the turns. The sand will help the automobile wheels turn easier on the fresh asphalt, and thus prevent any scuff marks. Note that an asphalt driveway needs 12-24 months to cure and become fully harden.
Also avoid driving near the driveway edges as this is where the asphalt is the weakest. By building up soil or gravel around the driveway edges you can help reduce the risk of damaging the driveway edges.